Review | Collection

gaurav_gupta_autumn-winter_2015_runway_collection_couture_indian_amazon-india_fashion_week_saree-lehenga_wineThe venue was some sort of fantasy land – vines and LED strips hanging around tree-trunks, banyan root like structures beneath color-changing lighting. The models walked in one by one – in elegant, fantasy and goddess like silhouettes – at times a mermaid and at times a royal princess. The models had sun-tanned skin with bronze and gold makeup, and gold-powdered hair, making them almost without an ethnicity – like ethereal beings.

This was Gaurav Gupta’s Autumn Winter 2015 collection on Day 2 of Amazon India Fashion Week. The color palette was even more subdued than Gupta’s previous AW collections – consisting of whites and blacks, wine, champagne, rose, peach, grey and sapphire shades. We saw a lot of sheer, organza with crepe and satin. The jewelry was goddess-like to match the dresses – with head pieces and drop earrings.

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Perhaps it played into Gupta’s theme of ‘Silt & Cipher’ that takes its inspiration from fantasy and mythology, bringing in fashion that is like the words etched in sand before they are washed away by the sea – meaningful yet short-lived – evanescent.

Or perhaps the tried-and-tested formula of tone-on-tone embroidered saree-lehengas, subdued colors, long jackets and mermaid gowns is working well for him. Not just that, monotonal embroidery on sheer reminds us of the signature Elie Saab designs. It may as well have been Elie Saab’s Indian version. Here they are:
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If novelty didn’t come in embroidery or floor-touching jackets, it came in the layering that came both in gowns and lehengas. The freshest pieces were combinations of jackets with skirted trousers. Or maybe they were layered peplum jackets that became capes to the trousers. Maybe we need a new name for them? Others encompassed peplums, short capes, and slitted skirts. There were many one-shouldered tiered mermaid gowns, some were real beauties, like the one worn by muse and showstopper Kalki Koechlin. Should we say repetition is allowed as long as it is awe-inspiring?

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Shilpa Ahuja a designer and entrepreneur. She is the editor-in-chief of ShilpaAhuja.com, which she founded with the goal of inspiring confidence in the modern working woman through fashion. Fashion has traditionally been for the rich, white, thin woman. That's how it evolved over centuries and that's how it's been represented in fashion media. But Shilpa believes that with the changing role of women in the society, fashion has changed, too. She believes that fashion is for everyone, regardless of their age, gender, color, body type and background. So she translates runway fashion into easy style advice that one can incorporate into their daily lives. Shilpa's work has been published in the University of Fashion blog and Jet Airways magazine. She is also an artist, illustrator and cartoonist. She is also the creator of Audrey O., a comic series that represents the lifestyle of millennial women. She enjoys creative writing and world travel. Her art has been exhibited at Harvard Graduate School of Design and the Aroma Hotel, Chandigarh and been published in Chandigarh Times. Originally from Chandigarh, Shilpa also has a professional degree in architecture and has worked in interior project management. She is also the author of the book "Designing a Chinese Cultural Center in India". Shilpa has a Masters in Design Studies degree from Harvard University. For feedback and questions, please email contact@shilpaahuja.com

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